best street food near assi ghat varanasi (2026)

tldr: 8 best food spots around assi ghat and BHU varanasi - shri bhola kabab (soya veg kabab, rs 50), pizzeria vatika (wood-fired pizza, rs 200-350), fire uttapam stall (butter uttapam, rs 40-50), and kaashi foods (dum biryani, rs 90). assi ghat’s food scene goes way beyond the standard varanasi chaat circuit.

everyone talks about dashashwamedh ghat and godowlia chowk when it comes to varanasi food. and they should - those places are legendary. but the assi ghat side of varanasi has its own thing going on, and most food guides completely ignore it.

i spent two days eating my way through assi ghat, lanka road, and the BHU campus area. the food here is different from the old city. less traditional chaat and kachori, more diverse - you’ll find south indian, pizza, veg kabab, chinese, and the standard maggi-chai combo that every ghat seems to require by law. some of it is genuinely excellent. some of it is fine. none of it broke the bank.

if you’re looking for the classic varanasi street food experience, check out my varanasi street food guide. this guide is specifically about the assi ghat and BHU side of town.

the awards (my personal picks)

• best overall: shri bhola kabab. soya kabab that doesn’t taste like soya. rs 50 for a complete meal.
• best for couples: pizzeria vatika. wood-fired pizza, chilli oil, ganga aarti in the background. rs 400-600 for two.
• best budget: BHU campus stalls. student pricing means rs 30-80 feeds you properly.
• most surprising: fire uttapam stall. south indian breakfast in varanasi that actually works.
• best quick bite: chai and maggi at assi ghat. the universal ghat combo.
• best sweet: apple pie at pizzeria vatika. soft, cinnamony, loaded with apple chunks.
• most overrated: BHU chowmein. canteen-level stuff. needs salt and ketchup to function.

the full list

the top tier (my regulars)

1. shri bhola kabab

near assi ghat / rs 50 per person / 8.5/10

this place broke my brain a little. they serve soya-based veg kababs and i genuinely could not tell they were soya until someone told me. two pieces of kabab, sweet chutney, coriander chutney, and this impossibly thin, flaky tawa paratha. onion and lemon on the side. rs 50 for the whole thing.

the kabab is soft in a way that makes no sense for soya. the spicing is spot on - you get the smokiness and depth you’d expect from proper lucknowi kabab, minus the meat. varanasi is close enough to lucknow that you can feel the influence, and this stall channels it well.

the soya biryani (they call it veg biryani, but let’s be honest, it’s a pulao) is rs 40 for a half plate. soya chunks, peas, rice, garam masala, onion, and two chutneys. nothing revolutionary, but for rs 40 on a varanasi street corner, i have zero complaints.

what to order: soya veg kabab with paratha (rs 50), soya biryani half plate (rs 40)

verdict: varanasi does vegetarian food differently. this stall is proof.

2. pizzeria vatika

assi ghat / rs 250-350 per person / 8/10

i know. pizza in varanasi. i went because a friend insisted, and i’m glad i did. pizzeria vatika claims to be one of india’s first wood-fired pizzerias, and whether or not that’s true, the pizza is legit.

the spinach and jalapeno pizza has a thin crust, generous cheese, and actual flavour. the jalapeno gives it a nice tang, and the spinach tastes clean and fresh - not that soggy frozen spinach situation you get at chain places. the vatika special has everything on it - olives, corn, capsicum, mushroom, onion - and somehow doesn’t feel overloaded. both are freshly made, freshly baked, and you can watch them being assembled.

the move here is the chilli oil they keep on the side. pour it on the pizza. it transforms everything. olive oil and chilli flakes are also available, but the chilli oil is the star.

the mocha coffee is solid. the apple pie is decent - soft, loaded with apple chunks, slices, and jam, with a good amount of cinnamon. my one complaint is the cinnamon is a touch heavy. but if you like cinnamon, you’ll love it.

the white sauce pasta is standard canteen-level stuff. acceptable but not worth ordering when the pizza exists.

it gets crowded in the evening because ganga aarti happens right next door. there’s a slight guilt eating pizza while devotional hymns are playing, but pET puja is also puja.

what to order: spinach jalapeno pizza, vatika special pizza, chilli oil on everything, mocha coffee, apple pie

verdict: wood-fired pizza next to the ganga. varanasi continues to surprise.

3. fire uttapam stall

near godowlia chowk / rs 40-50 per person / 8/10

this stall is only open until 11 am. after that, it doesn’t exist. the guy who runs it cooks uttapam at a speed that’s almost theatrical - batter spread on the tawa, generous butter, vegetables being cut simultaneously, and then a final blast of flame. it’s a whole performance.

the uttapam itself is crispy on the outside, soft inside, with a filling of onion, coriander, and tomato that gives it a nice crunch. served with coconut and pudina chutney. for south indian breakfast in the middle of varanasi, this is unexpectedly good.

i love south indian food for breakfast, and finding a well-made uttapam near the ghats felt like a small personal victory. it’s not fancy. it’s a street stall. but the execution is tight.

what to order: butter uttapam with coconut-pudina chutney

verdict: south indian breakfast done right, in a city that has no business being this good at it.

the solid middle

4. kaashi foods

assi ghat / rs 90-150 per person / 7.5/10

a proper sit-down option near assi ghat with thalis, biryani, and standard north indian fare. i ordered the dum biryani - rs 90 for a cute little handi with paneer, peas, beans, cauliflower, and decently spiced rice. it’s not going to change your life, but it’s filling and reasonably priced.

they have kadhai paneer, kofta, chapati, and rice for those who want a proper meal instead of eating chaat for every course. after 48 hours of nothing but snacks, sometimes you just need rice and dal.

the thali is their main draw and seems popular with the crowd. if you’re staying near assi ghat and want something more substantial than street food, this works.

what to order: dum biryani (rs 90), kadhai paneer, thali

verdict: solid, dependable, not exciting. exactly what you need sometimes.

5. assi ghat maggi and chai stalls

assi ghat / rs 30-40 per person / 7.5/10

maggi and chai at a ghat is not a food review. it’s a vibe. the chai at assi ghat is good - standard masala chai, nothing revolutionary, but it hits different when you’re sitting by the ganga after morning aarti.

the maggi is maggi. you know what maggi tastes like. the location is what you’re paying for. and at rs 20-30 for maggi and rs 10-15 for chai, you’re not paying much.

the stalls also serve idli, dosa, and other quick bites. the idli is reportedly better than train idli, which is a low bar, but they clear it.

what to order: chai and maggi. that’s it. that’s the order.

verdict: the maggi-chai-ghat combo is mandatory. i don’t make the rules.

6. bundi parkota ghat maggi

bundi parkota ghat / rs 30-40 per person / 7.5/10

same concept as the assi ghat stalls, but the setting is different. bundi parkota ghat is where the street art is - murals and drawings along the walls. you eat maggi, look at art, and watch boats go by. the maggi is identical to every other ghat maggi, but the view and the atmosphere make it worthwhile.

if you’re doing a boat ride and need to refuel, this is the spot.

what to order: maggi

verdict: maggi is maggi. the ghat is the reason to come.

the ones i’d skip (but you might not)

7. BHU campus stalls

lanka / BHU / rs 30-50 per person / 7/10

BHU has a massive food ecosystem because of the student population. vada pav, samosa, chowmein, fried rice, chilli paneer, dosa, sandwiches, papdi chaat - everything exists here at student prices.

the chilli paneer was decent - spicy, salty, and goes well with the fried rice. the chowmein is pure canteen vibes - capsicum, carrot, cabbage, thin noodles, needs ketchup on top to function. it’s cheap and filling, which is the entire point.

there’s a good bengali restaurant somewhere in the area that multiple people recommended, but i didn’t get to try it. next time.

the coffee at the campus is drinkable. the vishwanath temple inside BHU is worth visiting regardless of food plans.

what to order: chilli paneer with fried rice, samosa, coffee

verdict: student food at student prices. set your expectations accordingly.

8. BHU vada pav stall

lanka / BHU / rs 20-30 per person / 6.5/10

mumbai-style vada pav in varanasi. it exists. it’s fine. the vada is decent, the pav is standard. if you’re from mumbai, you’ll be underwhelmed. if you’re not, you’ll think it’s acceptable. it’s cheap, it’s quick, and it fills a gap.

what to order: vada pav

verdict: functional. not destination-worthy.

assi ghat food tips

• assi ghat food is different from old city food. don’t come here expecting tamatar chaat and kachori. come for the diversity.
• the fire uttapam stall closes by 11 am. plan accordingly.
• pizzeria vatika gets very crowded during evening aarti time. either go before 6 pm or be ready to wait.
• shri bhola kabab is the best value-for-money meal in the area. rs 50 for kabab and paratha is hard to beat.
• BHU campus food is best on weekdays when the student stalls are fully operational.
• boat rides from the ghats are rs 100-200 depending on distance. combine a boat ride with maggi at bundi parkota ghat.
• the ghats involve a lot of stairs. wear comfortable shoes. your knees will thank you.
• if you’re staying near assi ghat, kaashi foods is the most reliable option for a proper sit-down meal.

if you found this useful, check out these other varanasi guides:

• best street food in varanasi
• varanasi food guide
• best restaurants in varanasi