best street food in daryaganj delhi (2026)
honest 2025-2026 reviews of 9 best street food spots in daryaganj. mughlai, haleem, smash burgers, lotan ke chole kulche, milkshakes, roohafza milk.
tldr: out of 10 daryaganj spots i revisited this round, my top 3 are velox restaurant (mughlai, tandoori raan), lotan ke chole kulche (1920s, 4-gen institution), and irani cafe (best haleem in delhi). the famous overrated one - changezi chicken - is explicitly called out at the bottom. full reviews with prices and what’s changed below.
daryaganj doesn’t get the attention that jama masjid or chandni chowk gets, and that’s exactly why i like it. narrower streets, thinner crowds, and food every bit as good as the more famous neighbouring areas. this is old delhi without the tourist markup, but with the tourist-grade quality.
the original guide for this had solid picks but missed two of the most iconic spots in daryaganj - lotan ke chole kulche (1920s, fourth generation, coal fire) and jeha caterers (the sardarji puri chole spot that sells out by 12:30 pm every day). i went back this round and added them, plus revised the takes on the ones that have either improved or slipped since 2024.
the daryaganj food crawl is best done as a half-day affair. start morning with lotan or jeha for breakfast, walk to velox for mughlai lunch, drink milkshakes at sheikh sahab in the afternoon, end with irani cafe haleem and chai. that’s a rs 1,500-2,000 day for two people and you’ll hit 6-7 spots without feeling rushed.
if you’re exploring more of delhi’s food, check out my guides on street food in north delhi and best chaat in delhi.
the awards (my picks)
- best overall: velox restaurant - mughlai food at a level that embarrasses 2x-priced restaurants
- best old-school institution: lotan ke chole kulche - 1920s, fourth generation, coal fire
- best morning puri chole: jeha caterers (sardarji puri chole) - 9:30-12:30 only, sells out fast
- best haleem: irani cafe - hyderabadi style, desi ghee, ramzan deal is unbeatable
- best burger: smash burger stall - fresh keema, double patty, late-night during ramzan
- best drink: sheikh sahab - milkshakes with their own dairy, brownie delight is the order
- best value: islamic milk store roohafza milk - rs 100, feeds 3-4 people
- best ramzan food crawl: irani cafe + sheikh sahab + smash burger combination from 8-11 pm
- most overrated: changezi chicken - dry, chewy, coasting on netaji subhash marg name recognition
the full list
| # | spot | area | best for | cost for two | my rating |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | velox restaurant | daryaganj | mughlai, tandoori raan, lamb chops | rs 1500-2500 | 9/10 |
| 2 | lotan ke chole kulche | daryaganj commercial school | coal-fire chole kulche | rs 100-150 | 8/10 |
| 3 | jeha caterers (sardarji puri chole) | daryaganj | morning puri chole | rs 100-150 | 8/10 |
| 4 | irani cafe | daryaganj | haleem, irani chai | rs 200-400 | 8/10 |
| 5 | sheikh sahab | daryaganj main road | milkshakes, dubai kunafa shake | rs 300-600 | 8/10 |
| 6 | smash burger stall | daryaganj main road | chicken smash burger | rs 300-400 | 7.5/10 |
| 7 | islamic milk store | daryaganj back lane | roohafza milk, habshi halwa | rs 150-250 | 7.5/10 |
| 8 | daryaganj sunday book market food | mahila haat (delhi gate) | samosa, chai (limited now) | rs 100-200 | 6.5/10 |
| 9 | changezi chicken (skip) | netaji subhash marg | chicken changezi (overrated) | rs 600-900 | 5/10 |
the top tier (the regulars)
1. velox restaurant
daryaganj, near maulana azad medical college / rs 1500-2500 for two / 9/10
velox is the mughlai destination of daryaganj. the tandoori raan is the dish to plan a meal around: rs 2,200 for two, 4-hour marination, no raw papaya used (which is the shortcut most cheaper places use to fake tenderness). the meat genuinely slides off the bone, the marination has depth, and the smoke profile from the tandoor is properly developed.
beyond the raan, the order is the adrak ke panje (lamb chops) and the karachi nalli kebabs. both are unique to velox - the lamb chops use a ginger-heavy marinade that you don’t see at jama masjid spots, and the karachi nalli kebabs have a slow-cooked bone-marrow flavour that’s almost stew-like.
velox during ramzan is the move if you can manage it. they add hyderabadi biryani and special haleem to the menu, and the post-iftar crowd is more relaxed than the daytime tourist rush. the ambience is functional rather than fancy - this is daryaganj, not khan market.
what to order: tandoori raan (rs 2,200 for two), adrak ke panje (rs 850), karachi nalli kebab (rs 750), one rumali roti per person.
verdict: the best mughlai value in delhi as of 2026. better than karim’s, comparable to old jawahar, half the price of pandara road havemore.
2. lotan ke chole kulche
chawri bazaar 7:30-10:30 am, then commercial school daryaganj 11 am-2 pm / rs 40-60 per plate / 8/10
lotan ke chole kulche has been serving since the 1920s. it’s now run by the fourth generation - mahaveer and deepak kashyap. the coal-fire cooking is the differentiator: most delhi chole kulche use gas now, but lotan still uses coal which gives the chole a smoky base flavour you can’t fake.
three spice levels: low, medium, and “at your own risk” hot. don’t go for “at your own risk” on your first visit - it’s not a normal hot, it’s “lose the ability to taste anything else for an hour” hot. medium is the sweet spot. the buttery kulche, rich chole, ginger-coriander garnish, and tangy chutney all work together.
the bonus item: chole soup. this is the watery broth left over after serving the chole, ladled into a small steel glass. some regulars bring their own glass and ask for it. it’s free with your plate. the broth is essentially the most concentrated version of the chole flavour and it’s worth tasting once.
caveat: serious delhi food critics are split on lotan. some recent reviews call it “too oily and one-dimensional.” it’s not the best chole kulche in delhi by technical measures (nani ke chole kulche in ashok vihar is technically cleaner). but it has the history, the coal-fire, and the chole soup - all things you don’t get elsewhere. include it for the experience as much as the food.
what to order: medium-spice chole kulche plate (rs 50), chole soup (free with plate). add an extra kulche (rs 20) if you’re hungry.
verdict: the most iconic chole kulche in old delhi. specifically a 1920s-history pick, not a “best technical chole kulche” pick.
3. jeha caterers (sardarji puri chole)
daryaganj, near old book market location / rs 100-150 for two / 8/10
jeha caterers is fondly called “sardarji puri chole wale” by regulars. the operating hours are tight: 9:30 am to 12:30 pm. by 12:30 they’ve sold out, completely. they don’t reopen for the day. that scarcity is the calibration mechanism - they only make as much as they can serve perfectly fresh, and they stop when they run out.
the order is straightforward: two puris (urad dal stuffed, fried fresh in front of you) with a small katori of chole. rs 50-60 a plate. the puris are crispier than typical because they’re fried in batches every 15 minutes - you basically get whichever batch is freshest when you order. the chole is heavier and oilier than lotan’s but in a different style - more punjabi, less coal-smoky.
it’s a small spot. limited seating, mostly standing. the regulars are old delhi locals who’ve been coming for decades. tourists rarely find it because there’s no signage and it’s tucked into a daryaganj side lane. ask any local for “sardarji puri chole wale” and they’ll point you the right way.
what to order: one plate puri chole (rs 60). add an extra puri (rs 25) if you’re hungry.
verdict: the best old delhi morning breakfast under rs 100. specifically a “be there before noon” pick.
the solid middle
4. irani cafe
daryaganj, near maulana azad medical college / rs 200-400 for two / 8/10
irani cafe in daryaganj is the haleem destination. they do both chicken and mutton haleem, with the mutton being the upgrade order (rs 250-300 a bowl). the preparation is hyderabadi style - haleem is a slow-cooked porridge of meat, lentils, and wheat, finished with caramelised onions, fresh coriander, lemon, and a dusting of garam masala.
the irani chai (rs 40) and bun maska (rs 50) are the secondary orders. the chai is sweeter and creamier than regular delhi chai - made with mawa or condensed milk - and the bun maska is a soft bun split open and slathered with butter. it’s a complete breakfast at rs 100.
during ramzan, irani cafe runs a deal that’s the move: half kg mutton haleem comes with half kg chicken haleem free. that’s enough for 4-5 people for rs 600-700 total. plan a ramzan visit specifically for this.
what to order: mutton haleem (rs 250) with rumali roti, irani chai (rs 40), bun maska (rs 50).
verdict: the best haleem in delhi. specifically a ramzan-evening pick, also good year-round for the chai-and-bun-maska combo.
5. sheikh sahab
daryaganj main road / rs 300-600 for two / 8/10
sheikh sahab does milkshakes and they’re genuinely better than they have any right to be. the differentiator is the dairy - sheikh sahab owns their own dairy, which means the milk is fresher than what milkshake stalls typically use. the texture difference is immediate.
the order on a first visit is the brownie delight shake (rs 150) - thick, ice-cream-based, served with brownie chunks folded in. it’s a meal in a glass. for a special occasion, the dubai pistachio kunafa shake (rs 400) is the indulgent option - chocolate-coated glass, kunafa pieces, and the milk-and-pistachio base.
they have a kulfi shake (rs 180) that’s the underrated order - basically liquefied kulfi with cream on top. and the rabri shake (rs 220) which is too sweet for me but apparently has a cult following.
extended hours during ramzan (open till 2 am). regular hours are till midnight.
what to order: brownie delight (rs 150) for the standard order, dubai pistachio kunafa shake (rs 400) for the indulgent one.
verdict: the best milkshake spot in old delhi. specifically a “afternoon dessert pick” rather than a meal.
6. smash burger stall
daryaganj main road / rs 300-400 for two / 7.5/10
a small stall on daryaganj main road that’s become an instagram favourite for chicken smash burgers. the chicken keema is fresh, smashed onto the griddle to maximise crust, and served on a soft bun with cheese, sauce, and onions. a single chicken smash burger is rs 150. the chicken maharaja smash (double patty) is rs 250.
what makes this stall work is the keema texture. most delhi smash burgers use a too-fine keema that goes pasty when smashed. this one has a coarser grind that holds texture and gives you a real chicken bite. the buns are also soft and toasted properly - small detail but most stalls get it wrong.
veg option (a smash tikki) is available but it’s clearly a side product. order veg only if you’re vegetarian and you have to. the chicken is the differentiator.
extended hours during ramzan (open till 2 am). regular hours are till about 11 pm.
what to order: one chicken maharaja smash (rs 250) split between two, plus an extra single (rs 150).
verdict: the best non-fancy chicken smash burger in old delhi. specifically a snack pick, not a meal.
7. islamic milk store
daryaganj back lane / rs 150-250 for two / 7.5/10
islamic milk store is the underrated dairy spot in daryaganj. the orders are roohafza milk (rs 100) - cold milk mixed with roohafza syrup, served in a tall glass that feeds 3-4 people - and habshi halwa (rs 150-200), a dense, milk-and-mawa-based halwa that’s specific to old delhi.
the roohafza milk is the iftari drink during ramzan. it’s also a year-round summer option. cold, sweet, slightly rose-flavoured, and easy to drink in volume. the habshi halwa is the local-knowledge dessert - most tourists don’t know about it because it’s not on any “famous old delhi sweets” list. it’s denser than gajar halwa, less sweet than balushahi, and uniquely delhi.
it’s a small back-lane shop, easy to walk past. ask for “islamic milk wala” and locals will point you right. they also do lassi and kulfi but the roohafza milk and habshi halwa are the two distinctive items.
what to order: roohafza milk (rs 100) split between three, plus one habshi halwa (rs 150).
verdict: the underrated dairy stop in daryaganj. specifically a “i want something different” pick.
8. daryaganj sunday book market food
mahila haat, near delhi gate (sundays only) / rs 100-200 for two / 6.5/10
after the sunday book market moved to mahila haat near delhi gate in 2019, the food scene at the market itself has thinned out. you’ll get samosas, kachoris, chai, and packaged snacks - the historic vendors (devi ke kulche, baniyaan of gupta ji) didn’t fully relocate.
it’s worth knowing about only if you’re already at the book market on a sunday. the food is functional - good enough to keep you going while browsing books, not worth a special visit. for a proper food experience near the book market, walk 10 minutes to the main daryaganj strip where the rest of this list is.
what to order: samosa (rs 30), bread pakora (rs 25), chai (rs 20). that’s a sunday book-browsing snack stack.
verdict: book-market-day pick only. don’t make a separate trip.
the one to skip
9. changezi chicken
3614 netaji subhash marg, daryaganj / rs 600-900 for two / 5/10
changezi chicken is famous for the chicken changezi dish - a creamy, spiced chicken curry that’s been on netaji subhash marg for decades. recent food critic reviews have been brutal: 5/10, with the chicken specifically described as “dry, unappetizing, chewy.”
the actual changezi gravy isn’t bad - the spice profile is distinct, the kasoori methi notes are good, and the colour is right. but the chicken pieces are over-cooked and tough. for the price (rs 600-900 for two), you’re paying for a tough-chicken meal at a venue with average hygiene.
the alternative: walk to velox restaurant for proper mughlai, or to old jawahar at jama masjid for the curries. both are 10-15 minutes away and meaningfully better.
verdict: the most overrated daryaganj spot in 2026. eat at velox or al jawahar instead.
daryaganj food tips
- lotan kulche needs early arrival. chawri bazaar location closes at 10:30 am. daryaganj location runs 11 am-2 pm. don’t show up at 3 pm expecting it to be open.
- jeha caterers (sardarji puri chole): 11 am is the sweet spot. the puris are at peak crispness, the chole hasn’t been sitting too long. by 12 pm they’re running low; by 12:30 they’re sold out.
- velox is busiest at lunch on weekends. for the tandoori raan, plan a weekday visit between 1-3 pm. the kitchen is at peak and the wait is shortest.
- ramzan transforms daryaganj. if your visit overlaps with ramzan (typically march-april), the food crawl options multiply. plan an 8-11 pm post-iftar walk through the main strip.
- carry cash for street stalls. sheikh sahab, smash burger stall, islamic milk store - all reliable on cash. velox and irani cafe are reliable on upi/cards. lotan and jeha can sometimes refuse upi during peak hours.
- don’t drive into daryaganj. parking is difficult. take the metro to delhi gate or jama masjid station and walk in. the entire food strip is a 10-minute walk from either station.
- for the cleanest crawl: lotan -> jeha -> sheikh sahab -> velox -> irani cafe. that’s a half-day eating itinerary covering 5 of the top 7 spots.
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