where to eat in india on rs 500 a day (2026)
named-vendor day plans for eating on rs 500 - indore rs 317, delhi rs 280, mumbai, bengaluru, varanasi, jaipur. real published prices.
tldr: rs 500 a day is comfortable in most of india and tight in two places. chennai is the cheapest of all - a tamil nadu government order set amma unavagam idli at rs 1. bengaluru’s indira canteen does breakfast at rs 5. indore does a seven-item day for about rs 317, delhi about rs 280 plus a rs 120 unlimited thali at andhra pradesh bhawan. mumbai works at rs 15-30 a vada pav and breaks at a rs 400 table.
most budget-india advice is useless because it is written in ranges. “street food is cheap.” “you can eat for a few dollars a day.” nobody gives you a named shop, a named dish and a number you can add up. this guide does the opposite: it builds an actual day of eating in each city - breakfast, lunch, snack, dinner - from specific vendors with published prices, and then adds it up and tells you whether rs 500 survives.
the headline finding is that rs 500 is a genuinely generous street-food budget almost everywhere in india and a genuinely inadequate restaurant budget almost everywhere in india. a published 2026 india guide puts budget eating at rs 300-600 a day against rs 800-1,700 for mid-range, and the dividing line is not the city, it is whether you sit at a table. the same guide benchmarks a street snack at rs 40-80 and chai at rs 15-30, against rs 200-350 for a cafe main and rs 400-800 for a tourist-restaurant meal. one restaurant lunch is a whole day of street food. this is why mumbai is hard on rs 500 and indore is not - not because mumbai’s street food costs more, but because mumbai offers you more chances to sit down.
a note on money before anything else. every rupee figure here comes from a published source with a date - a february 2026 national geographic piece on indore, a 2026 delhi street food guide, published mumbai and bengaluru under-rs-100 roundups, named local blogs for varanasi, and shop price lists for jaipur. indian street food prices move with fuel, milk and onion prices, which is to say constantly, and assume every number has crept up since it was published. where two sources disagree - and on sita ram diwan chand’s chole bhature in delhi they disagree by a factor of three - both figures are given.
the other thing to be straight about: nobody from this site has eaten at these places. every total below is built from published prices and published descriptions, cross-checked where sources conflicted. the x/10 ratings are composites of what the published record says about how liveable rs 500 is in that city, not anybody’s personal experience of doing it. and where a city’s prices simply are not published in any citable form - lucknow, kolkata, hyderabad, chennai and patna are all worse-documented than they should be - that is said plainly rather than filled in with guesses.
this is not a ranking of which cities are cheapest. that already exists: cheapest food cities in india does the city-by-city price comparison, and best street food cities in india ranks them on quality rather than cost. this guide is the operational version - what you actually order, where, and in what sequence, to land under rs 500.
the awards
- easiest city on rs 500: indore - seven named items totalling about rs 317, with the cheapest published prices of any indian city
- best value meal in india: amma unavagam, chennai - a signed tamil nadu government order set idli at rs 1, sambar rice at rs 5 and curd rice at rs 3, and nothing anywhere comes close
- best subsidised breakfast: indira canteen, karnataka - rs 5 for breakfast, rs 10 each for lunch and dinner, across bengaluru and the state
- best unlimited thali: andhra pradesh bhawan canteen, delhi - a published rs 120, and the best value you can get without a government subsidy behind it
- best breakfast: brahmin’s coffee bar, basavanagudi, bengaluru - rs 40-60 for two idlis, a vada and sambar
- best cheap dinner: sita ram diwan chand, paharganj, delhi - chole bhature published at rs 40-50 on one guide and rs 80 on another
- best rs 30 in india: daulat ki chaat near kinari bazaar, delhi - rs 30-50 a plate, sold roughly 7 to 10 am, november to february only
- best free meal: gurudwara langar, anywhere - free to everyone regardless of religion, caste, gender or economic status, with the golden temple kitchen in amritsar the largest
- hardest city on rs 500: mumbai - the street food fits easily and a single tourist-restaurant meal at rs 400-800 does not
- most overrated: khan chacha, khan market, delhi - rolls at rs 150-250, the most expensive street food in this guide, with published complaints of forty-minute waits and a verdict of merely decent
- most expensive single snack in this guide: rabri ghewar at bombay misthan bhandar, jaipur - from about rs 450, which is ninety per cent of a day’s budget in one sitting
- worst-documented food city: kolkata - world-class street food and almost no published per-item prices anywhere citable
the day plans
| # | city | a full day, named | day total | rs 500 verdict | rating |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | chennai | amma unavagam idli, sambar rice, curd rice | under rs 100 | absurdly comfortable | 9.5/10 |
| 2 | indore | poha, kachori, patties, dahi bada, coconut crush | about rs 317 | very comfortable | 9.5/10 |
| 3 | varanasi | launglata, malaiyo, rabri jalebi, bun rabdi | about rs 270 | very comfortable | 9/10 |
| 4 | bengaluru | indira canteen, idli-vada, benne dosa, biryani | about rs 200-360 | very comfortable | 9/10 |
| 5 | delhi | bedmi puri, bhawan thali, dahi bhalle, chole bhature | about rs 280-490 | comfortable | 9/10 |
| 6 | amritsar | langar, plus kulcha and lassi | free, plus extras | very comfortable | 8.5/10 |
| 7 | kochi | indian coffee house meals, thattukada | about rs 150-250 | comfortable | 8/10 |
| 8 | hyderabad | irani chai, nahari, shirmal, biryani | about rs 300-400 | comfortable | 8/10 |
| 9 | mumbai | bun maska, misal pav, vada pav, pav bhaji | about rs 360-400 | tight, workable | 7/10 |
| 10 | jaipur | pyaaz kachori, ghee jalebi | snacks only, costed | comfortable, incomplete | 7/10 |
| 11 | kolkata | poorly documented, cheap by every account | unverified | comfortable | 7.5/10 |
| 12 | lucknow | poorly documented | unverified | comfortable | 7/10 |
the named places and what they cost
| # | place | area | best for | cost | rating |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | amma unavagam | across chennai | idli, sambar rice, curd rice | rs 1-5 | 9.5/10 |
| 2 | indira canteen | across bengaluru | breakfast, lunch, dinner | rs 5-10 | 9/10 |
| 3 | andhra pradesh bhawan canteen | ashoka road, delhi | unlimited thali | rs 120 | 9.5/10 |
| 4 | indian coffee house | ernakulam and across kerala | veg and non-veg meals | rs 40-70 | 8.5/10 |
| 5 | garden cafe & bakery | secunderabad, hyderabad | irani chai | rs 20 | 8.5/10 |
| 6 | persis cafe | madhapur, hyderabad | irani chai | rs 25 | 8/10 |
| 7 | shah ghouse | tolichowki, hyderabad | nahari, shirmal, irani tea | rs 25-85 | 8.5/10 |
| 8 | vidyarthi bhavan | basavanagudi, bengaluru | masale dose | rs 60-105 | 9/10 |
| 9 | dindigul thalappakatti | chennai and tamil nadu | veg and mutton biryani | rs 280-389 | 6/10 |
| 10 | prashant nashta corner | residency area, indore | poha | from rs 20 | 9/10 |
| 11 | lal balti | tilak path, ram bagh, indore | aloo kachori | about rs 15 | 9/10 |
| 12 | vijay chaat house | chappan dukan, indore | khopra patties | rs 22 | 9/10 |
| 13 | joshi dahi bada house | 24 bada sarafa, indore | dahi bada | rs 80 | 9/10 |
| 14 | johny hot dog | chappan dukan, indore | benjo, hot dog | from rs 30 | 8.5/10 |
| 15 | suresh chaat centre | old kasera bakhal, indore | chaat | rs 50-70 | 8.5/10 |
| 16 | navin coconut crush | bada sarafa, indore | coconut crush | from rs 80 | 8/10 |
| 17 | brahmin’s coffee bar | basavanagudi, bengaluru | idli, vada, sambar | rs 40-60 | 9/10 |
| 18 | ctr (central tiffin room) | malleshwaram, bengaluru | benne masala dosa | rs 60-110 | 9/10 |
| 19 | mtr | bengaluru | rava idli | rs 30-50 | 8.5/10 |
| 20 | sita ram diwan chand | paharganj, delhi | chole bhature | rs 40-80 | 9/10 |
| 21 | shyam sweets | chandni chowk, delhi | bedmi puri, aloo sabzi | rs 40-50 | 8.5/10 |
| 22 | natraj dahi bhalle wala | chandni chowk, delhi | dahi bhalle, aloo tikki | rs 20-50 | 8.5/10 |
| 23 | jung bahadur kachori wala | near chandni chowk, delhi | kachori | rs 15-30 | 8.5/10 |
| 24 | lotan chole kulche | chandni chowk, delhi | chole kulche | rs 30-40 | 8.5/10 |
| 25 | old famous jalebi wala | chandni chowk, delhi | jalebi | rs 60 per 250 g | 8/10 |
| 26 | paranthe wali gali | chandni chowk, delhi | stuffed paranthas | rs 100-150 a plate | 7.5/10 |
| 27 | kyani & co | marine lines, mumbai | irani chai, bun maska | rs 30-50 | 9/10 |
| 28 | b. merwan & co | grant road, mumbai | irani chai, bun maska | rs 30-50 | 8.5/10 |
| 29 | ashok vada pav | dadar, mumbai | vada pav | rs 15-30 | 9/10 |
| 30 | aaswad | dadar, mumbai | misal pav | rs 50-80 | 8.5/10 |
| 31 | sardar pav bhaji | tardeo, mumbai | pav bhaji | rs 60-100 | 8.5/10 |
| 32 | cannon pav bhaji | cst, mumbai | pav bhaji | rs 60-100 | 8/10 |
| 33 | ram ashray | matunga, mumbai | dosa, filter coffee | rs 50-90 | 8.5/10 |
| 34 | cafe madras | matunga, mumbai | dosa | rs 50-90 | 8.5/10 |
| 35 | bade miyan | colaba, mumbai | baida roti | rs 60-90 | 8/10 |
| 36 | cafe noorani | haji ali, mumbai | keema pav | rs 60-90 | 8/10 |
| 37 | elco pani puri | bandra, mumbai | pani puri, bhel | rs 40-50 | 7.5/10 |
| 38 | shri ram bhandar | thatheri bazaar, varanasi | launglata | rs 10-20 a piece | 8.5/10 |
| 39 | gopal ji ki dukan | vishwanath gali, varanasi | launglata | rs 10-20 a piece | 8.5/10 |
| 40 | malaiyo vendors | godowlia and chowk, varanasi | malaiyo, winter only | rs 30-50 | 9/10 |
| 41 | ksheer sagar | lanka, varanasi | rabri jalebi, bun rabdi | rs 50-100 | 8/10 |
| 42 | raj bandhu sweets | sigra, varanasi | rabri jalebi | rs 60-100 | 8/10 |
| 43 | rawat mishthan bhandar | jaipur | pyaaz kachori | rs 35 a piece | 8.5/10 |
| 44 | laxmi misthan bhandar | johari bazar, jaipur | ghee jalebi | rs 40 a piece | 8/10 |
| 45 | khan chacha | khan market, delhi | rolls | rs 150-250 | 5.5/10 |
| 46 | bombay misthan bhandar | mi road, jaipur | rabri ghewar | from rs 450 | 5/10 |
indore — about rs 317 for a seven-item day
the cheapest credible prices published for any indian city, and they come from a february 2026 national geographic piece rather than a blog, which is why they anchor this whole guide.
- breakfast: poha from rs 20 at prashant nashta corner, near suyash hospital in residency area, plus aloo kachori at about rs 15 at lal balti on tilak path in ram bagh. indore eats poha with jalebi in the morning and treats it as a food group.
- lunch: khopra patties at rs 22 at vijay chaat house in chappan dukan, and a benjo or hot dog from rs 30 at johny hot dog in the same market.
- evening: chaat at rs 50-70 at suresh chaat centre in old kasera bakhal, sarafa bazaar.
- dinner: dahi bada at rs 80 at joshi dahi bada house, 24 bada sarafa - the single most-photographed food stall in central india.
- dessert: coconut crush from rs 80 at navin coconut crush in bada sarafa.
day total: about rs 317, for seven separate things. that leaves rs 180 spare, which in indore buys another three items. sarafa bazaar is a jewellery market by day that converts into a street food market at night, so the evening and dinner stops are the same two hundred metres of road.
be careful with other indore numbers. one food-media piece gives indore jalebi figures of rs 150-500, which read as cost-for-two restaurant totals rather than item prices and contradict the per-item numbers above by an order of magnitude.
rs 500 verdict: very comfortable. 9.5/10.
more: sarafa bazaar food guide, best poha jalebi in indore, chappan dukan guide.
chennai — the cheapest city in india, by government order
chennai is the one city where the cheapest food is not street food. it is state policy.
amma unavagam, the chennai corporation’s subsidised canteen network, was set up with prices fixed in a signed government order: idli at rs 1, sambar rice at rs 5 and curd rice at rs 3. that is from government order g.o.(d) no.21 of the municipal administration and water supply department, dated 17 january 2013, and a later listing adds pongal at rs 5 and curry-leaf rice at rs 5. you can eat three times for under rs 15.
the caveat matters as much as the number. that order is from 2013 and no revised rate order has been published since. thirteen years is a long time to hold a rs 1 idli, so treat these as the scheme’s founding prices, expect them to have moved, and expect availability to vary by outlet. this is still the cheapest published food price in india by an enormous margin.
- breakfast: amma unavagam idli at rs 1 each, or pongal at rs 5.
- lunch: sambar rice at rs 5, curd rice at rs 3.
- dinner, if you want a real restaurant: this is where chennai gets expensive fast. dindigul thalappakatti’s own current menu lists veg biryani at rs 280, boneless chicken 65 biryani at rs 365 and naidu mutton biryani at rs 389, with a promotional chicken biryani at rs 149. one mutton biryani is seventy-eight per cent of a day’s budget.
day total: under rs 100 on the canteens, or about rs 400 if you eat one proper biryani.
the gap, stated plainly: no citable counter price could be found for murugan idli shop, ratna cafe, rayar’s mess, karpagambal mess, sangeetha, or for an unlimited banana-leaf sapad, which is the meal you actually want in chennai. the only murugan figures available are delivery-app prices and they are not usable as counter prices.
rs 500 verdict: absurdly comfortable on the canteens, comfortable otherwise. 9.5/10.
more: best dosas in chennai, chennai food guide, best restaurants in chennai.
delhi — about rs 280 on street food, about rs 490 with a sit-down
delhi is the best-documented budget food city in india and the plan below is built entirely from a 2026 delhi street food guide, which itself totals a full day of street food at rs 280.
- breakfast: bedmi puri with aloo sabzi at rs 40-50 at shyam sweets in chandni chowk, plus chai. in winter, swap in daulat ki chaat near kinari bazaar at rs 30-50, sold roughly 7 to 10 am and only from november to february - it is the same dish as lucknow’s nimish and varanasi’s malaiyo.
- lunch: this is delhi’s trump card. the andhra pradesh bhawan canteen on ashoka road does an unlimited thali at rs 120. there is nothing else in this guide at that value, and it is a ten-minute walk from india gate.
- snack: dahi bhalle at rs 30-50 and aloo tikki at rs 20-40 at natraj dahi bhalle wala in chandni chowk. golgappe run rs 10-30, samosas rs 10-20, a kachori at jung bahadur rs 15-30, chole kulche at lotan rs 30-40, ram ladoo in sarojini nagar market rs 30.
- dinner: chole bhature at sita ram diwan chand in paharganj. the published prices disagree badly: one 2026 guide says rs 40-50, another says rs 80, and an old delhi delivery service lists it at rs 145, which includes a delivery markup. budget rs 80 and be pleased if it is less. alternatively, stuffed paranthas on paranthe wali gali at rs 100-150 a plate including pickle and curd.
- dessert: jalebi at old famous jalebi wala, rs 60 for 250 g, with smaller stalls doing rs 30-40 for the same quantity.
day total: rs 280 on pure street food, or about rs 490 if you take the bhawan thali and the paranthas. either way it fits.
what breaks it: khan chacha’s rolls in khan market at rs 150-250, which is the most expensive street food in this guide and the least well-reviewed. a bittoo tikki wala aloo tikki in pitampura is rs 80, four times the chandni chowk price. and any sit-down restaurant: haldiram’s at cp is about rs 450 for two and saravana bhavan about rs 650 for two, which are both fine but are two people’s entire daily budget.
rs 500 verdict: comfortable, with one restaurant meal a day as the ceiling. 9/10.
more: chandni chowk food guide, paranthe wali gali complete guide, best chole bhature in delhi, best chaat in delhi.
mumbai — about rs 360-400, and the tightest city here
mumbai’s street food is cheap. mumbai is not. that contradiction is the single most important thing to understand about eating here on a budget.
- breakfast: irani chai with bun maska at rs 30-50 at kyani & co on marine lines, b. merwan & co at grant road, or yazdani bakery in fort. this is the best cheap breakfast in india and it is also an endangered one.
- lunch: misal pav at rs 50-80 at aaswad in dadar or at mamledar misal.
- afternoon: vada pav at rs 15-30 - ashok vada pav in dadar, anand stall at vile parle station, gajanan in thane. bhel puri at rs 30-50 from juhu beach vendors, or rs 40-60 at girgaum chowpatty, where the tourist premium is visible in the numbers. pani puri at elco in bandra is rs 40.
- dinner: pav bhaji at rs 60-100 at sardar pav bhaji in tardeo or cannon pav bhaji by cst. or baida roti at rs 60-90 at bade miyan in colaba, or keema pav at rs 60-90 at cafe noorani near haji ali and olympia coffee house in colaba.
- if you want to sit: dosa at rs 50-90 at ram ashray or cafe madras in matunga. these are the cheapest proper restaurants in mumbai and the only sit-down meals that fit this budget without strain.
day total: about rs 360 with no sit-down, about rs 400 with the chais counted.
why mumbai is still the hardest city on this list: the published benchmark for a tourist-restaurant meal in india is rs 400-800, and mumbai has more of those per square kilometre than anywhere else. one lunch in a bandra or lower parel restaurant is your whole day. a beer is half a day. the city also spreads over sixty kilometres, so the cheap food and the place you are staying are frequently an hour apart and the local train fare starts eating the food budget.
rs 500 verdict: tight but workable, on condition that you eat standing up. 7/10.
more: best vada pav in mumbai, best irani cafes in mumbai, best street food in mumbai, the dying irani cafes of mumbai.
bengaluru — about rs 200-360, and the best breakfast city in india
bengaluru is expensive to live in and cheap to eat breakfast in, because the tiffin rooms never repriced themselves for the tech economy.
- the subsidised option: karnataka’s indira canteens charge rs 5 for breakfast and rs 10 each for lunch and dinner. three meals for rs 25. they were still operating as of september 2025, though with an honest caveat attached - the greater bengaluru authority put them under inspection that month over food quality, with reports of watery rasam and rubbery chapatis. cheap and genuinely variable.
- breakfast: rs 40-60 at brahmin’s coffee bar in basavanagudi for two idlis, one vada and sambar. this is the best value breakfast in south india.
- mid-morning: rava idli at rs 30-50 at mtr.
- lunch: benne masala dosa at ctr, central tiffin room, in malleshwaram, or masale dose at vidyarthi bhavan in basavanagudi - two of the most famous dosas in the country. and this is where the price question gets interesting, so read the next bit.
- evening: vv puram food street, where a masala dosa is rs 40-70.
- dinner: biryani at rs 80-100 at the shivaji nagar joints.
day total: about rs 200 on indira canteens, or about rs 360 eating properly in the tiffin rooms.
the counter price and the app price are not the same number, and bengaluru proves it. a published under-rs-100 roundup puts ctr and vidyarthi bhavan dosas at rs 60-80. the delivery apps, checked in october 2026, put vidyarthi bhavan’s masale dose at rs 105, plain dose at rs 100, rava vada at rs 55, and ctr shri sagar’s dosa at rs 110. both sets are real; they are prices for different things. the app figure carries a delivery markup of roughly fifty to a hundred per cent, and the same effect is visible across india - murugan idli shop in chennai shows rs 147 for idlis on a delivery app, which is multiples of the counter price. budget from counter prices and treat every app number as inflated.
what breaks it: every cafe. the published benchmark of rs 200-350 for a cafe main course describes bengaluru precisely, and the city has more of those than any other in india. one brunch is a day and a half of tiffin.
rs 500 verdict: very comfortable, and trivially easy if you use the indira canteens. impossible in indiranagar or koramangala. 9/10.
more: best dosas in bangalore, best street food in bangalore, bangalore food guide.
hyderabad — about rs 300-400, on chai and nahari
hyderabad’s budget food is breakfast food, and the irani cafes are the reason.
- chai: irani chai runs rs 20-25 a cup at named cafes - rs 20 at garden cafe & bakery in secunderabad, about rs 20 at chowrasta chai in kphb, rs 25 at persis cafe in madhapur. masala chai at chai kahani in sainikpuri is around rs 60, which is the outlier. those figures are from december 2023.
- breakfast: shah ghouse in tolichowki publishes a current menu - nahari at rs 85, khichdi khata at rs 95, paya at rs 159, keema at rs 195, shirmal at rs 25, tandoori roti at rs 25, and irani tea at rs 30 a cup or rs 95 for a two-cup kettle. nahari with two shirmal and a chai is about rs 140 and it is the best breakfast in the city.
- lunch and dinner: this is the gap. no citable current price could be found for a plate of biryani at shadab, cafe bahar, nayaab, alpha or shah ghouse itself, which is absurd given that biryani is the single most searched food in this city. budget rs 200-300 and you will almost certainly be fine, but that is an estimate.
day total: about rs 300-400, with the dinner figure estimated rather than sourced.
numbers to actively distrust here. a widely-copied figure of rs 120 for a cup of irani chai at nimrah cafe is implausible against rs 20-25 everywhere else and appears on an auto-generated site with its own approximate-prices disclaimer. a rs 30 masala dosa at sanman hotel in tarnaka traces back to a 2013 page that has not been edited since. haleem is ramadan-only and the one published figure, around rs 150 a person, is from december 2019.
rs 500 verdict: comfortable, with the caveat that the city’s famous dish is the one thing nobody publishes a price for. 8/10.
more: best street food in hyderabad, best irani chai in hyderabad, best biryani in hyderabad, best haleem in hyderabad.
kochi and kerala — about rs 150-250, if the old prices still hold
kerala has the most useful published price list in south india and also the oldest, so handle it carefully.
indian coffee house, which has outlets in ernakulam and across the state, publishes a full menu: veg meals at rs 40, non-veg meals at rs 70, ghee rice rs 37, egg masala rs 35, fish curry rs 47, chicken curry rs 65, chicken biriyani rs 95, fish fry rs 110, beef biriyani rs 110, mutton biriyani rs 125. those figures date to roughly 2019 or 2020 and have not been revised since, so add several years of inflation before you trust them. even doubled they are cheap.
- breakfast: indian coffee house, or a thattukada - the roadside stalls, where published guidance puts a plate at under rs 40, though that figure is also several years old.
- lunch: veg meals at rs 40, which is a full rice plate with sides and refills.
- dinner: non-veg meals at rs 70, or fish curry and rice for about rs 90.
day total: about rs 150-250 at published prices, realistically more.
the useful macro figure: published kerala guidance puts a budget traveller at rs 1,000 a day including a decent stay and food, which is the only per-day budget figure anyone publishes for an indian state. if accommodation is inside that, rs 500 for food alone is generous.
what breaks it: onam sadya. restaurant sadya menus in september 2025 started at rs 599 plus taxes and ran to rs 3,250 - a single festival meal costing between one and six days of this budget. also unsourced: toddy shop meals at any named shop, and standalone prices for puttu kadala, appam and stew, or parotta and beef fry.
rs 500 verdict: comfortable, on prices that need a mental inflation adjustment. 8/10.
more: kochi street food guide, best toddy shops in kochi, kerala toddy shop food guide, kochi food guide.
varanasi — about rs 270, and the cheapest great food in india
varanasi prices are absurd in the right direction. the figures here come from a named local guide rather than national media, so treat them as slightly softer than indore’s.
- breakfast: launglata at rs 10-20 a piece at shri ram bhandar in thatheri bazaar or gopal ji ki dukan in vishwanath gali. two of those and chai is under rs 60.
- winter mornings only: malaiyo at rs 30-50 a clay pot around godowlia chowk and the chowk area near kashi vishwanath. november to february, because the process needs dew and cold nights. this is the best rs 50 in india.
- afternoon: bun rabdi maska at rs 50-80 at ksheer sagar in lanka.
- evening: rabri jalebi at rs 60-100 a plate at raj bandhu sweets in sigra or ksheer sagar in lanka.
day total: about rs 270, and that is four indulgences rather than four meals.
the gap: nothing citable exists for varanasi’s kachori-sabzi stalls or its thali places, which is where a local actually eats lunch. the published record covers the sweets and misses the meals. budget rs 100-150 for a thali and you will almost certainly be fine, but that is an estimate and this guide will not pretend otherwise.
rs 500 verdict: very comfortable, with room for a boat. 9/10.
more: best street food in varanasi, best chaat in varanasi, makkhan malai winter guide.
jaipur — costed snacks, uncosted meals
jaipur’s published prices are all at the snack and sweet end, which makes it a half-answer.
- breakfast or snack: pyaaz kachori at rs 35 a piece at rawat mishthan bhandar.
- dessert: ghee jalebi at laxmi misthan bhandar in johari bazar, rs 40 a piece or rs 400 a kilo.
- the trap: rabri ghewar at bombay misthan bhandar starts at about rs 450. that is one sweet, and it is ninety per cent of a day’s budget. ghewar generally runs rs 300-1,000 a kilo depending on type and shop, with mawa and paneer versions at the top of that range.
the gap: dal baati churma and jaipur’s thali restaurants have no price that could be verified from a citable source. this is frustrating because the thali is what you actually want to eat here.
rs 500 verdict: comfortable on snacks, incomplete on meals. 7/10.
more: best street food in jaipur, best dal baati churma in rajasthan, jaipur food guide.
amritsar — the city where the budget stops mattering
sikh langar serves meals to everyone free of charge, regardless of religion, caste, gender, economic status or ethnicity, and the kitchen at the golden temple is the largest expression of it anywhere. you sit on the floor in rows, you are served dal, roti, sabzi and kheer, and nobody asks you anything.
two things to be clear about. first, langar is not a budget-travel hack and treating it as one is poor form - eat, then volunteer in the hall or at the dish-washing line, or donate. second, it is genuinely open to all, so there is no awkwardness about being a tourist; the awkwardness is only in how you behave once you are inside.
with one or two langar meals in the day, rs 500 in amritsar is more money than you can spend on food. the rest goes on kulcha, lassi and whatever the city’s non-veg dhabas are charging.
rs 500 verdict: very comfortable. 8.5/10.
more: golden temple langar guide, amritsar food guide, best amritsari kulcha in amritsar.
the cities this guide cannot cost properly
this is the honest part. five of india’s best cheap-food cities have almost no published, citable per-item prices, and inventing them would defeat the point of the exercise.
- kolkata. by every published account the cheapest major metro in india to eat in, and the per-item record is nearly empty. the only firm figures available are cost-for-two totals at heritage sweet shops - about rs 100 at k.c. das, girish chandra dey & nakur chandra nandy and nobin chandra das, about rs 250 at balaram mullick, about rs 300 at bhim chandra nag. no citable price for a kathi roll at nizam’s or kusum, for telebhaja, for ghugni, or for a rice-and-fish meal at the old pice hotels. kolkata on rs 500 is almost certainly very comfortable; this guide cannot prove it.
- lucknow. the only verifiable lucknow price in this entire research pass was ram asrey’s malai paan gillauri at rs 550 for 500 g, which is a gift, not a meal. no citable per-plate figure for tunday kababi, for basket chaat, or for makkhan malai.
- patna. nothing citable per item, which is remarkable for a city widely described as india’s cheapest place to eat. litti chokha has no published plate price anywhere reachable.
- hyderabad and chennai, partly. both are costed above for breakfast and canteens, and both have a gaping hole where the main event should be: no current citable price for hyderabad biryani at any of the famous houses, and none for a chennai banana-leaf sapad.
- ahmedabad. unlimited gujarati thali is the thing to eat and no fetchable published source gave a current price for a mid-range one.
for those cities, the comparison in cheapest food cities in india is the better starting point, and the city street food guides linked at the bottom go further than anything here.
tips
- the rule that matters is standing versus sitting, not city versus city. published benchmarks put a street snack at rs 40-80 and a tourist-restaurant meal at rs 400-800. one of those is a snack, the other is your whole day. everything else is detail.
- never budget from a delivery app. app prices carry a markup of roughly fifty to a hundred per cent over the counter. vidyarthi bhavan’s dosa is rs 60-80 at the counter and rs 105 on an app; murugan idli shop in chennai shows rs 147 for idlis on delivery. if a price looks high for street food, you are looking at a delivery menu.
- look for the subsidised canteens before anything else. chennai’s amma unavagam was set up with idli at rs 1 and sambar rice at rs 5 by government order, and karnataka’s indira canteens charge rs 5 for breakfast and rs 10 for lunch or dinner. several states run equivalents. nobody puts these in food guides and they are the cheapest cooked food in the country.
- find the state bhawan canteens too. the andhra pradesh bhawan canteen in delhi at rs 120 for an unlimited thali is the model. the state guest houses in most big indian cities run subsidised canteens serving regional food, and they are almost never in food guides.
- distrust any price you cannot date. a lot of circulating indian food prices are a decade old - a rs 30 dosa in tarnaka traces to 2013, kerala’s under-rs-50 full meal line to 2016, and chennai’s rs 1 idli to a 2013 government order. they were true once. check the publication date before you plan a day around one.
- eat your big meal at lunch. thalis and unlimited meals are a lunch format across india. dinner is where restaurants make their money.
- budget for water. bottled water runs rs 20-30 a litre and in a hot month you will drink three. that is up to rs 90 a day, or nearly a fifth of the budget, and nobody includes it.
- chai is the cheapest thing you will buy all day. rs 15-30, four times a day, and it is also how you work out where to eat - the stall with the most people drinking tea outside it at 4 pm is the answer.
- season changes the menu more than the price. daulat ki chaat in delhi, malaiyo in varanasi and nimish in lucknow all exist only from roughly november to february. ghewar belongs to teej. a summer trip misses several of the best cheap things in india entirely.
- ignore the tourist-adjacent version of every stall. girgaum chowpatty bhel at rs 40-60 against juhu at rs 30-50, and bittoo tikki wala at rs 80 against chandni chowk aloo tikki at rs 20-40, are the same foods with a location markup.
- two people do not cost twice as much. street food scales linearly but thalis and sharing plates do not - a rs 450 restaurant bill for two is rs 225 each, which fits, where the same meal alone would not.
- carry small notes. almost nothing in this guide takes a card, and a rs 20 kachori vendor cannot break a rs 500 note at 8 am.
related guides
- cheapest food cities in india - the city-by-city price comparison
- best street food cities in india
- indian street food guide
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