durban food guide (2026) - bunny chow, shisanyama, and the indian food capital of africa

tldr: durban is the indian food capital of africa and the birthplace of bunny chow, a hollowed-out bread loaf filled with curry that was invented during apartheid. the two must-eat spots: patel’s (pure veg bunny chow since 1911, 38 rand for a large, the original), and gundons (mutton bunny chow that many say is the best in south africa, the bread absorbs curry until it’s volcanic). also eat shisanyama (wood-fire grilled meats, zulu tradition, social experience), and fish and chips at skippers (fresh hake on the beachfront). full guide with history and prices below.

durban, south africa is a city most indian travellers have never heard of, which is strange because it has one of the largest indian populations outside of india.

in 1860, indian indentured labourers arrived in durban to work the sugarcane fields. they brought their curries, their spices, and their cooking traditions. over 160 years later, those traditions have evolved into something that exists nowhere else on earth. the food here is unmistakably indian in its flavours, but entirely south african in its form.

bunny chow is the ultimate example. indian curries. south african bread. born from apartheid-era necessity. now the most iconic dish in the country.

i spent a full day eating through durban’s two dominant food cultures: indian and zulu. bunny chow and shisanyama. curry and fire-grilled meat. this is what i found.

the awards (my personal picks)

• best overall: gundons mutton bunny chow. volcanic, saucy, addictive. one of those meals where you lean back and can’t talk afterwards.
• best value: patel’s vegetarian bunny chow. 38 rand (roughly rs 175 or $2.50) for a large. filling enough for two meals.
• best experience: shisanyama at mojo in the township. you choose your meat, watch it grill over wood fire, and the male takes the first bite of everything.
• best beachfront food: skippers fish and chips. fresh hake, thin crispy batter, right on the beach.
• most fascinating history: the invention of bunny chow during apartheid. born from struggle, now south africa’s most beloved street food.
• best spice shopping: victoria street market. the aroma of all the masalas hits you the moment you step inside.

the full list

the top tier

1. gundons - the legendary mutton bunny chow

durban city / 50-70 rand for half loaf / 10/10

a lot of locals say this is the best bunny chow not just in durban, but in all of south africa. after eating it, i understand.

the sign was being repaired when i arrived. doesn’t matter. everyone knows where gundons is. step into the kitchen and the aroma of all the curries hits you. simmering red oils, pots of different curries, loaves of bread flying around. to-go orders are constant.

the standard is a quarter loaf of bread. i went for the half loaf. it arrived like a bread boat. a huge, durable half loaf of bread hollowed out and overflowing with mutton curry. the curry is runny and saucy, and the bread holds it all together. it’s an engineering feat.

the technique: take the top piece of bread (the lid), dip it into the curry hole, submerge it, and bite. the bread is so fluffy, so spongy, it absorbs everything. the mutton curry has layers of flavour. chili, cinnamon, clove, cumin. the mutton is so tender it flakes apart in your fingers.

as you eat deeper, the bread gets soggier and more saturated with curry. this is exactly what you want. you keep hydrating it with more curry. every layer gets better. the bottom of the bread, completely soaked through, is the best part.

the mutton passes the test when it bounces off the bone. this mutton bounces.

this is more than a dish. it’s one of those elite meals where you finish eating and all you can do is lean back in your chair. you don’t want to talk anymore. you just exist in post-bunny-chow bliss.

the salad on the side (carrots, onions, chilies) is essential. when the heat from the curry is too much, the cool salad brings you back.

what to order: mutton bunny chow, half loaf if you’re brave (quarter if you’re sensible)

verdict: worth coming to durban just for this. 10/10. not a metaphor.

2. mojo shisanyama

navel township / 100-200 rand for a full tray / 9/10

shisanyama is the zulu food tradition. the word means “burn the meat.” the concept: you arrive, your car gets washed, while you go inside and choose your raw meats from a fridge display.

at mojo, the meats are laid out before you. chicken wings, boerewors (south african sausage), brisket, short ribs, kidneys, liver. everything is weighed individually, placed on a tray, and sent to the grill.

the grill room has huge logs burning. real wood, real fire. the grill masters dust everything with a salt-and-spice seasoning, then grill each cut strategically so everything finishes at the same time. chicken wings first (longer cook time), then brisket and ribs, then the organs.

the tradition: the male takes the first bite of every meat to prove it’s safe for the family. liver first, then ribs, then everything else. it’s a cultural ritual that dates back generations and still holds true in modern durban.

the meat arrives on a wooden trough. you chop it into bite-sized pieces and eat with your hands. dip in salt, grab a green chili with every bite. the meat itself has minimal seasoning. it’s about tasting the natural flavour, the smoke, and the fire.

the brisket is standout. smoky, fatty, juicy. the boerewors is crumbly with chili flavour. the chicken wings are smoky with just salt. the green chilies take everything to the next level with wonderful heat.

the sides: steamed bread (soft and slightly sweet, very similar to chinese mantou) and shakalaka (tomatoes, onions, chili pepper). both contrast the salty richness of the meat perfectly.

shisanyama is not just about the food. it’s about the atmosphere, the community, hanging out. you come with friends or family, socialise, eat, have a drink. that is the south african way.

what to order: mixed tray with chicken wings, brisket, boerewors, short ribs. steamed bread on the side. green chilies are mandatory.

verdict: one of the great culinary traditions of south africa. the food is great. the experience is unforgettable.

3. patel’s - the original vegetarian bunny chow

durban city centre / 38 rand for large / 9/10

patel’s has been serving bunny chow since 1911. over 100 years. pure vegetarian. this is one of the originals.

step inside and the aroma of spices fills the room. the curries available: mongol dal (green dal), sugar beans, broad beans, and mixed veg. you choose your bread size (small 28 rand, medium 33, large 38) and which curry to fill it with.

i went for the large with a mix of everything. the bread is hollowed out and the curries just flood in. the achar (carrot pickle) goes on top.

the first bite: fluffy bread absorbed with dal, potatoes, masala. the curries are not oily. that’s the first thing i noticed. full force of spices without the grease. you taste star anise, cinnamon, cumin, coriander, turmeric, dried chilies, cinnamon-clove aroma. all loaded within that flood of curries.

the bread has two textures. the fluffy interior is a sponge that absorbs everything. the chewier crust has more structure and stability. tear into the wall of the bunny, mash it with the curries, and every bite gets messier and more delicious.

38 rand for a large is roughly rs 175 or $2.50. this is enough food for lunch and possibly dinner. one of the cheapest, most filling meals i’ve found anywhere in the world.

what to order: large mixed veg bunny chow with achar

verdict: 100+ years of history in a bread bowl. start here for the original before going to gundons for the meat version.

the solid middle

4. skippers - beachfront fish and chips

durban beachfront / 60-90 rand / 8/10

skippers is a durban institution for fish and chips. located right on the beach, always busy, possibly open 24 hours.

they specialise in hake fish. the batter is thin and crispy (not thick and chunky like bad fish and chips). inside, the fish is moist and flaky with almost scale-like flaking. there’s a subtle spice within the batter. the chips below soak up fish juices and oils, crispy on edges and creamy inside.

it’s laid-back beach food. people come in swimsuits. orders are called out. people take their fish and chips to the beach. the atmosphere is pure durban.

with lemon squeezed on top, it’s a solid fish and chips. not the best i’ve ever had, but the beachfront setting and the fresh hake make it a worthwhile stop.

what to order: hake and chips with extra lemon

verdict: beachfront fish and chips is a durban rite of passage.

5. victoria street market

durban city centre / varies / 7.5/10

the spice market inside victoria street market is worth a visit for the aroma alone. all the masalas, chilies, and spices you need for durban’s curries are here. the vendors sell luggage and spices from the same shop, which is a very durban thing.

the outside overflow market is more interesting: fresh vegetables, chilies, and the zulu traditional medicine stall with bones, skulls, skins, and herbs used for healing.

not primarily a food destination, but essential for understanding the spice culture that makes durban’s food so distinctive.

verdict: go for the spice aroma and the cultural experience. buy some masalas if you’re cooking.

the history you need to know

bunny chow wasn’t invented because someone had a creative idea. it was invented because apartheid left people with no other choice.

in 1860, indian indentured labourers arrived in durban to work sugarcane fields. they brought their curries. by the 1940s, south africa’s apartheid segregation laws prevented non-white workers from eating inside restaurants. they needed a portable takeaway meal.

disposable packaging didn’t exist. traditional rotis were too flimsy for the saucy gravies. indian cooks came up with an ingenious solution: hollowed out cheap government-subsidized white bread, filled it with hot curry, and used the bread’s centre as a lid. easy to carry, easy to eat with your hands.

“bunny” comes from “bania,” the indian caste that invented the dish. “chow” is south african slang for food. over the years, the pronunciation blended into “bunny chow.”

born from struggle and hardship, bunny chow has become one of the most iconic foods in south africa. you can get it across the country now, but it originates in durban, and durban is still where you eat it.

durban food tips

• eat bunny chow with your hands. this is the only correct method. it will be messy. that’s the point.
• start at patel’s for the vegetarian original, then go to gundons for the mutton version. you need both to understand bunny chow fully.
• visit a shisanyama with a local guide if possible. the township experience is more meaningful with someone who can explain the traditions.
• the beachfront area around skippers is lively and good for walking after a heavy meal.
• victoria street market is best in the morning when the spice vendors are fully stocked.
• bunny chow does not travel well. it’s meant to be eaten fresh. don’t try to take it on a flight.
• durban is the third-largest city in south africa. it’s busy, colourful, and has a laid-back feel that’s different from johannesburg or cape town.
• prices in durban are remarkably affordable. a full day of eating at all five spots costs under 400 rand (roughly rs 1,800 or $25).

if you found this useful, check out these other guides:

• places to visit in new york city
• best street food markets in london

more on travell.cc

• amritsar food guide- what to eat and where
• bailey road patna food guide
• bangalore food guide- what to eat and where
• best food in kasauli- heritage market food guide
• best food in ratnagiri- kokani food guide with prices